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...So what the heck is a durian, anyway?!
Durians are a soccerball-sized fruit, brown-olivegreen with
a hard spiny, prickly exterior. Overweight green pregnant hedgehog
would be an apt description.
A.k.a. the "King of Fruits" (the title "God of
Fruits" is reportedly under dispute), there is obviously
more to them than meets the nose.The large-seeded fruit within
is yellowish-white with big seeds. However, getting to that point
can be tricky - one is confronted by their uniquely foul, overpowering,
eye-watering, breath-takingly unforgettable smell long before
one meets them. This smell has been described as compost, unwashed
socks, sewage, dead rats, overripe jackfruit as well as unprintable
less-charitable comparisons. Speciality restaurants serving durians
even install special ventilation systems!
Reputed aphrodisiac
A popular saying around here is that durians "smell like
hell but taste like heaven"...... I wouldn't know. With a
taste reported variously as "being a little like custard"
and "tastes like onions", I have to admit my epicuriosity
is at an all-time low as regards trying this fruit. I am not alone
in this reluctance, very few Westerners admit to liking the potent
fruit. English novelist Anthony Burgess noted that dining on durian
is like eating vanilla custard in a latrine!
Another saying is that "when the durians
come down (from the trees), the sarongs come off"!!! That
the awful stench and taste of durian can even be imagined to be
an aphrodisiac is a complete mystery.
Loved, hated, confiscated, banned..
The
ripe fruit is banned from hotel rooms (be they ever so humble),
taxis (they tend to smell like a goat died in them), buses (offenders
have had their durians physically grabbed and thrown out) and
ferries. Singapore's spotless subways sport no-durian signs. Singapore
Airlines has banned them from its planes (although it's rumoured
that Cathay Pacific will transport them). This probably also accounts
for their scarcity in the West (imagine piloting a load of durians
across the world!).
The popularity of the fruit is
mirrored in the multitudinous uses of both name and fruit: "Durian
Republic" is a trendy clothes franchise in the Philippines,
while Davao city in southern Mindanao (Philippines) is the "Durian
City".
Contrary to the belief of a non-fan
("durians must come from 'Durian Planet', in outer space"!),
most durians grow in the wilds of Southeast Asia, where deforestation
threatens the crop.
Durians can be grown in
plantations, but since only >15-year old trees bear fruit,
the economics of such projects make painful reading. However,
good news for Durian-lovers fearing price hikes: Research into
reducing the juvenile (non-fruiting) period is well in hand.
Durians
are an expensive obsession in south-east Asia, where fruit plantations
are closely guarded during harvest season. The fruits don't come
cheap, and the demand far outweighs the supply. Lovers of the
fruit have even been known to mortgage their possessions to gorge
themselves.
Considering sinking your savings
into the durian business? Beware the mock
durians! You also have to know "How
to choose durian", obviously a process fraught with dangers
as evidenced by the very funny article, a must-read.
So now you've invested in a durian
and await the next step with trepidation - what's next?! ....
So
I've got one - now what?!
Well, open it up and start chomping! Read Durian-jumping
for tips on how to open it. Apart from its obvious use as a
fruit, it is used in candy, milk shakes and icecream (tame stuff,
in my opinion, it took a Westerner to invent the lethal "Get
smashed with Durian" cocktail!).
Tempoyak is fermented
durian, a Malaysian equivalent of aged cheese, eaten cooked
or uncooked with rice. It supposedly retains all
the flavor and nasty smell of durian. Durian seeds are eaten
cooked.
Last but not least, the fruits
mace-like spiny exterior doubles as a weapon, sometimes inadvertently,
'cos they tend to fall at night, so when
they fall, don't be under them! Also, when hefting a durian,
remember to stand with your feet apart as it may part company
with its stem and land on your unsuspecting footsies! Pain will
then take on an entire new meaning.
A final warning
Washing down durian with beer reputedly produces copious
amounts of gas that can blast your insides to smithereens! And
... durian-induced bad breath is even worse than garlic breath!
Now - all that remains is for
me (in the best journalistic tradition) to ingest some fearsom
durian myself and document the process painstakingly. I've been
prevaricating for the past 4 years, interviewing various expats
on their experiences and being increasingly put off by these
- c'mon, would you willingly put a piece of garlicky-oniony-tasting
fermenting compost-smelling fruit into your mouth unless you
were high on something?